India: Operation Pav Baji

  We felt its pull an ocean away.  Several oceans, actually.  India’s guttural tugs started way back—back in the days of our stint working with the international students at our hometown university.   Those were the days of barbecues smoldering late into the nights, of the jangling languages clanging room to room, of the music… Continue reading India: Operation Pav Baji

Pulau Rhun: snorkel the microcosm

People do strange things to see fishes. Take, for example, our snorkel group. We dragged a reluctant captain from his slumber on the rainiest morning of our stay, loaded up his oversized canoe with fins and tubes and masks, threw in a little fried rice and smattering of fruit, and set out across the widest… Continue reading Pulau Rhun: snorkel the microcosm

Banda Neira: tops my list

I know it’s not fair—I fell in love with the place before we set out to see it. So of course when our Pelni pulled within sight of the Bandas’ first shores—those glowing green hotspots of heaven hazy in the distant clouds—I was crazy with expectation to arrive. Centerpiece of our trip, bull’s eye of… Continue reading Banda Neira: tops my list

Pelni

More than mere planes string together Indonesia’s thousands of islands: We’ve also got boats. That’s right—sleek boats, fast boats, fishing boats, row boats, cargo ships and canoes and frigates and ferries. Long before the populace was skipping across the clear blue waves in low-cost flights, they were chugging through the tides in boats galore. In… Continue reading Pelni