Saparua Island: Love and Rupture in the Moluccas

How do you win someone over after you’ve plundered his livelihood, strangled his religion, denigrated his race, and murdered his children? Strangely enough, this thought kept popping into my mind as the naked fishermen ran back and forth on their skiff, whooping and hollering and hauling in lines. “Um, I’m not sure this is an… Continue reading Saparua Island: Love and Rupture in the Moluccas

Pulau Rhun: snorkel the microcosm

People do strange things to see fishes. Take, for example, our snorkel group. We dragged a reluctant captain from his slumber on the rainiest morning of our stay, loaded up his oversized canoe with fins and tubes and masks, threw in a little fried rice and smattering of fruit, and set out across the widest… Continue reading Pulau Rhun: snorkel the microcosm

The Road to Mandalay

  “We’re not lost,” Seinn smiled at us from the front seat of the SUV. “There’s some construction, so we have to take this ro—” a huge crater slammed the front wheel down to the substrata of the earth’s crust and tossed Seinn from her seat and into the troposphere. She landed with a hopeless… Continue reading The Road to Mandalay

Sri Lanka 11: Colombo Daze

This was the city I almost forgot to photograph, the city of friends we’d vowed to visit, the city of whining motorbikes, scrambling tuk-tuks, and rainbows of fresh fruit swarming round busloads of elbows and shoulders hanging out windows barreling through intersections and coughing fog behind.   Colombo: city of such welcoming homes and such… Continue reading Sri Lanka 11: Colombo Daze

Sri Lanka 7: Kandy Botanical Gardens

I’ve witnessed a million bats tear-drop from limbs of a hundred ancient trees, and I’ve heard their godless squawking ringing through mid-morning’s breeze, and I’ve turned to my wife and said I thought these crazy guys belonged to the night.  Why won’t they shut up? I’ve strolled beneath the zig-limbs’-zag of squat trees growing themselves… Continue reading Sri Lanka 7: Kandy Botanical Gardens

Sri Lanka 2: James Taylor’s Legacy

His plaster bust watches over the entrance to the Hanthana Tea Museum: James Taylor, Scotsman, emigrant to Ceylon, promulgator of tea, father of the island’s most famous and marketable commodity. The placard at his cold, white side lists basic biographical data: the guy stood 6’4”, weighed two-sixty-something, and died at the relatively young age of… Continue reading Sri Lanka 2: James Taylor’s Legacy