Amritsar 3: The Kulchas

Amritsar 3: The Kulchas In Britain’s strange medley of militarism and well-wishing and racism and white-man’s-burdening that it called its Empire, the story of Jallianwalla Bagh has to be one of the most head-shaking and tear-budding and somber.   It’s the story of a subcontinent asking for freedom, and its wealthy Punjab province spearheading the… Continue reading Amritsar 3: The Kulchas

York: Tradition Running Amuck

  “So this is where that miserable old hunchback seduced the widow over her murdered husband’s coffin?” I mused into the rainy morning.   “Huh?”  Andy muttered between her clattering teeth.   “I said, ‘So this is where—‘”   “I heard what you said,” she snapped, “but tell me said you said.”   Don’t judge… Continue reading York: Tradition Running Amuck

Interview with Langkawi

Shortly after my trip through colonial stardom with Penang, I took a speedboat ride north and sat down for a little chat with Langkawi.  This fan favorite of Malaysia resides a languid skip away from the mainland, and just another hop from the Thai border.  Everyone knows her, but she can be a bit hard… Continue reading Interview with Langkawi

Golden Yangon

  I’d never met a Burmese rapper before, so of course I didn’t know what to do. Shake hands? Fist bump? Get jiggy with it?   What? People don’t say that anymore? You mean they never did? Are you sure? How about letting the dogs out—does that fit here?   Anyway, I only had a… Continue reading Golden Yangon

Sri Lanka 10: Notes on the South Coast

Sri Lanka 10: Notes on the South Coast TANGALLE BLOWHOLE “This is ridiculous,” I hissed. “This is the most—” “Smile and say, ‘Rupees!’” Andy snapped the photo of the feeble jet of water squirting from the rocks. “Relax. At least it’s not the gouging we got at Sigirya.” “Wait,” said the park ranger. “Another is… Continue reading Sri Lanka 10: Notes on the South Coast

Romania, October 2013

I finally got back to Romania after almost six years gone.  It’s my wife’s homeland, my second home, and a certain blessing every time I return.   This trip was especially memorable since we were welcoming a new brother to the family–that is to say, my wife’s little sister got married. While there, I found myself… Continue reading Romania, October 2013

Recipe for a Cable Cook-off

    In some ways, I feel more American now that I don’t live in America.  Case in point: I now have a TV and 70 channels.  Granted, half the stations don’t come in well enough to watch them and stay sane, and half of the rest are in Bahasa—but even so it’s still considerably… Continue reading Recipe for a Cable Cook-off

Singapore: The Merlion Gurgles and Roars

I’ve seen Singapore lifted to a golden pedestal, settled atop a gilded column glowing in fanciful sunset light, ever since I arrived in Jakarta.  That’s right: Jakarta fawns over Singapore. You’ll never see trash on the ground, I was told.  The subway’s clean enough to eat off the floor.  They’ve tamed the heat and roaches… Continue reading Singapore: The Merlion Gurgles and Roars

I Swear It’s Not Another Food Blog

For a guy moving himself off to Jakarta in a month, I’ve eaten surprisingly little Indonesian food—none, in fact, because Google knows of no place within a hundred miles serving such fare.  So it was a fateful day indeed when Andy and I stumbled across a some-assembly-required salsa packet for Nasi Goreng. And so this… Continue reading I Swear It’s Not Another Food Blog