Amritsar 3: The Kulchas In Britain’s strange medley of militarism and well-wishing and racism and white-man’s-burdening that it called its Empire, the story of Jallianwalla Bagh has to be one of the most head-shaking and tear-budding and somber. It’s the story of a subcontinent asking for freedom, and its wealthy Punjab province spearheading the… Continue reading Amritsar 3: The Kulchas
One Golden Temple, please. To go.
Don’t. Trust. Anyone. That was the motto of the ten-hour overnight train from Delhi to Amritsar. Well, at least it would have been if we had been awake enough to heed it. We were already exhausted from overnight travel to Delhi, from the fleecing at the hands of Lucifer’s travel agency, and from the whirlwind… Continue reading Amritsar I: The Cold
Our first taste of India, real India, came with the pre-paid taxi. “Do you know where this address is?” I asked as the young man in blue sweats chucked our backpacks into the rickety old minivan. “This van is black,” Andy muttered. “They told us the official taxis were black and yellow.” Good observation—my wife… Continue reading Delhi: Lucifer’s Lair
We felt its pull an ocean away. Several oceans, actually. India’s guttural tugs started way back—back in the days of our stint working with the international students at our hometown university. Those were the days of barbecues smoldering late into the nights, of the jangling languages clanging room to room, of the music… Continue reading India: Operation Pav Baji