Kawah Ijen: Fire on the Mountain

Blue flames everywhere – and not small ones either. We’re talking flames to cover a house, to dwarf a crowd, to light up a forest in flames fit for a gas stove, fit for a steel-cutting torch,  fit for a Bunsen burner. Fit for anything except a huge, stinking pile of rock on top of… Continue reading Kawah Ijen: Fire on the Mountain

East Java: Bromo’s Maw to Ijen’s Ghosts

“Right now,” I sighed, “right here, I wouldn’t be surprised to see a dinosaur strut around that corner.” Everyone nodded in agreement. “I mean, seriously: a Stegosaurus, or a Brontosaurus, or… or something. Or at least their ghosts, you know. At least their ghosts are here. “For sure, at least their ghosts.” By now they… Continue reading East Java: Bromo’s Maw to Ijen’s Ghosts

Jogja Part One: Vendetta

“I’m coming for you, Jogja, and this time,” I clinched my fists at my sides, “it’s personal.” “What are you mumbling about?” Andy yelled over the din of traffic, already hefting her backpack from the taxi’s trunk.  An endless stream of Jakarta headlights and blaring horns rumbled between us and the train station.  “Are you… Continue reading Jogja Part One: Vendetta