Amritsar 3: The Kulchas

Amritsar 3: The Kulchas In Britain’s strange medley of militarism and well-wishing and racism and white-man’s-burdening that it called its Empire, the story of Jallianwalla Bagh has to be one of the most head-shaking and tear-budding and somber.   It’s the story of a subcontinent asking for freedom, and its wealthy Punjab province spearheading the… Continue reading Amritsar 3: The Kulchas

Amritsar I: The Cold

Don’t. Trust. Anyone.  That was the motto of the ten-hour overnight train from Delhi to Amritsar.  Well, at least it would have been if we had been awake enough to heed it.  We were already exhausted from overnight travel to Delhi, from the fleecing at the hands of Lucifer’s travel agency, and from the whirlwind… Continue reading Amritsar I: The Cold